Saturday, December 17, 2016

Merry Christmas

Hasn't yet felt much like Christmas--it's in the 70s, there aren't decorations all over town, no Christmas music.

So we tried to make a little more of that spirit happen.

First, we had to decorate the tree.




Then you have to put it up.  (I know out of normal order, but you have to adjust.)


Then we had to put a few presents under it.







And...you might as well open one!




Of course, nothing says Christmas better than an Invitational Basketball Tournament...right?






We mixed up teams...first children against adults, then Sandy and Peter against Elyas and me.
I've lost both times.  Sandy and Elyas have won once each.  That means Peter won both times.  I guess I need to step up my game.  I should get a win next game...when I'm with Peter.

And of course, all was done to the accompaniment of "Favorite English Christmas Carols."

Merry Christmas to you all!

Friday, December 16, 2016

Viva Fidel!

In front of the Cuban-Ethiopian Friendship Monument


 Trumps and Labour
The End Near
Not sure I quite follow the claim, if claim there be.  I should try to find out what an Ethiopian might mean by this.

Likely a reference to the Derg taking over from Haile Selassie.  Yosef thought so, too, though it leaves me wondering...since Ethiopia is on a solar calendar, which is called Ge'ez, and they calculate Jesus' birth differently--today is December 7, 2009, the graffitist made the adjustment.  Ethiopians do that readily, though.  Their numbering of the hours is like the Hebrew pattern in the bible...dawn starts the day, so what is 7 AM to us is 1 AM to them.  But Yosef keeps his car and phone clock on our time, and moves back and forth between the two.

Friday

We needed to get both the birth certificate and the passport application done Friday, or we could have had some difficulties making our December 29 deadline.  Everything has to go sequentially, and, so far, there hasn't seemed to be any next step that couldn't begin until the prior step was completed.  The birth certificate has to be created (a new one, with our names on it) so it can be presented at immigration (why it's not called emigration, I don't understand) to get Elyas' Ethiopian passport.  Later, we'll get a US visa to travel.

We got the call to come to the birth certificate office pretty early in the day.  So Yosef picked us up and drove us there...a feat which we could not possibly accomplish without the help of someone who knows what he's doing.  The closest thing I can think of is driver's and car licensing services that are provided (at least in Washington state) out of those businesses that contract to do so.  I remember going to one in a strip mall, between a juice bar and a thrift store.  I only found it because the name, address and phone number were on a list of such places, and Google maps showed me the way (in a small city whose layout I already knew).   None of those bits would be true in this case.  Some Americans we knew before, and visited while here, said addresses don't help, as maps don't really work.  And as another reflection of my technology dependent (and sated) circumstances, I tried Addis Ababa on Google maps and was disappointed (or was it frustrated) that street level view was not available.  But I digress.

With Yosef at the helm we drove right there.  And, for a traffic clotted city, I was surprised to find a parking spot right in front, which we always seem to do.  He then led us straight around the back of the building, up a flight of stairs to a two-room office where these bureaucratic services were being done.  Not in a wing or building that provides the range of government services, or even personal documentation services or whatever way you might try to lump such things together in your mind.  

So we wait while they confirm names, spellings, etc.  Then we wait more.  I ask the local adoption agency person who is there helping us what is happening....He had said it was done, but we continued to wait.  It needed to be printed, and the one person who did the printing had stepped out.  "I'll call her," he said.  So he did, and she came back soon.


We got the birth certificate and the agency staffer said he’d meet us at immigration at 1, since we couldn’t make it there before they closed for the morning at 11:30.  Headed over there, visited one small souvenir shop, took a break at the Starbucks knockoff--Kaldi’s, then headed to immigration--across the street.

Outside the gate there are several large patios--covered, with lots of pleasant plants and trees.  Long lines of passport applicants snake around the several small buildings and booths on the patio.  There's a special line for our situation apparently, but our agency contact is late, so we wait on a set of benches on the patio.  As the lines wind past us, everyone stares.  Then a policeman starts shepherding people here and there.  He looks toward me and I can tell he wants to know what I'm doing.  (I'm at the end of the row of the five of us, a bit uninvolved in what the other four are doing.)  He wears a stern countenance--not because of me, necessarily, but I certainly am not cause for him to soften, and enquires--though it's more a demand, "You?!"  I point to Yosef, who explains in Amharic...and we stay at the bench.

Our contact arrives, heads straight to the open window at one booth--really a small half-wall at the end of the covered patio, to get our application.  Apparently, the staffer needs to make a copy of something for us, so our contact starts doing her job--taking money and handing out applications, while she makes the copy.  Good idea!

He fills out the application, then takes it to another similar booth at the other side of the patio.  After a while he motions us to get in line in front of the gate.  In what seems like a problem to us, Sandy has to go in a much longer women's line than we 4 males have (Yosef can't go with us).  Then we wait.  In my American way, I'm trying to figure why we're waiting, what for, and how long it will be.  Our agency contact says to me, "Just wait."  A real challenge to my cross-cultural capacities.  

The whole time, our contact is talking to the guard, slipping inside a bit when the gate does open, getting pushed back out (not forcefully, but clearly in a pattern of conduct I certainly would be uncomfortable to engage).  Finally, he tells me the staff are in a meeting so we wait.  Shortly, he clarifies that they're in a meeting starting at 3, so we have to get in by then.  It's almost 2 by this point.  

"Will we make it?"

"I don't know," he says.  I wonder if he tires of this.

I am already tired, and I grow more so at Just Wait.

Then I figure out that we--Sandy, Peter and I--don't even have to go in.  I run over to Sandy's line (which I did several times, to inform each time I learned something new) to get her.  A relief, though I sure did want to see inside.

Soon, he gets in, with Elyas.  Yosef takes us to the Cuban-Ethiopian friendship monument across the street. 

That's Peter, straight below the apex of the sign.  The crowd wasn't a crush, though it was disconcerting to me inasmuch as the queueing process is not neat and orderly, like I'm accustomed to.   (I'm acutely aware of this, after Daniel M. gave that example in his very helpful cultural intelligence discussion in Sunday School.)

Also, Sandy saw--but I didn't--police using batons, as helpful prods, not as severe clubs, move people around in the process.  

None of it was even alarming...just overwhelming to me.  Like I say, I was relieved when I finally understood.  And, as Daniel pointed out, even if I find the process confusing and uncomfortable, everybody gets served.  So my discomfort isn't really the point.  

And besides, who wouldn't want to see the Cuban-Ethiopian friendship park?  These are the best shots I could get...it was closed.


A little Socialist Realism sculpture.  Well, not little in the actual sense, though this is more modest than many I've seen.


So, the application got submitted, and now we hope our contact will be able to pick up the passport in time to get to the TB test center by noon.  Otherwise, we have to wait until Tuesday, which means reading Thursday and not Wednesday.  And since the US embassy only accepts adoption materials on Tuesday and Thursday, a Thursday TB check could make it difficult to do the embassy on that day. 

Everything has worked out so far, so I'm going to do like the man said...

Just wait.

Two Tasks Done

Well, we got the birth certificate done and the Ethiopian passport application submitted.  And now we're exhausted.  Just wanted to let you know that those two steps were made today.  Later, I'll detail why it's exhausting, and how the lost day (no internet yesterday at the birth certificate office stopped the whole process) might actually matter.  We'll be fine, and will make our December 29 deadline, but it's all a lot tighter now.

More later...I'm going to sit quietly in the lobby of the Harmony Hotel (where I've come to buy more reliable access to the internet--about 2 dollars for 2 hours) next to the Christmas tree.

Thursday, December 15, 2016

A few disjointed reflections

We've had the chance to have a few conversations--the most with Yosef--about Ethiopia.  Their history is long.  Indeed, they say that a line (not unbroken, if I recall, but incredibly consistent) of 237 Solomonic kings started with a descendent of Solomon and Sheba, whom they claim as an Ethiopian.  The Yemenis apparently claim her as Yemeni, but the Ethiopians take pride of place in this, as their empire included the southern Arabian peninsula (either at or around that time).  The last of these kings was Haile Selassie, who, besides being king, is held by the Rastafari movement as the returned messiah, God incarnate.

The 1970s being the tumultuous period they were--oil shocks, general political instability in the developing world, weak economy, etc.--Ethiopia was rattled like everyone else.  In a not unfamiliar story, the weakened economy eroded the king's ability to pay the military enough, so they revolted.  In societies at their level of political development, the disposition of the army is critical.  Being probably the most organized institution in society, and having at their disposal the means of violence, a ruling elite needs to maintain good and effective relationship with--if not control over--the military.  It's often the rub--as a ruling clique effectively disconnected from the people, you need the military to help maintain internal control...but they then also have a lot of latent or potential political power waiting to become kinetic.

And kinetic it did, in 1974.  The Derg--basically a military junta--ended the Rastafari messiah's earthly kingship, and established a military advisory council that quickly embraced communism and the Soviet Union.  This government held...until that time when the Soviet Union no longer held.  By the early 1990s, rebel groups were challenging the Derg, and the Ethiopian People's Revolutionary Democratic Front finally triumphed.

The EPRDF--which still rules-- is composed of elements representing the large Oromo and Amhara ethnic groups and the smaller Tigray people.  Apparently, though, the Tigray comprise the bulk of the government, leaving the larger groups to feel disenfranchised.  I asked the adoption agency director what is necessary for Ethiopia to do better.  "The government has to give the opposition a chance."

Around the same time, Eritrea fought for and won its independence.  They now isolate themselves--sort of like, but not as intensely--N. Korea.

The Ethiopians are proud that they were never colonized.  And apparently other Africans--at least in E. Africa--recognize that pride.  This special status has not, however, protected them from the same kinds of distresses as their neighbors.

And it hasn't freed them from what you might consider the more modern forms of imperialism.  The Soviet Union may not have colonized them in the traditional sense of the word, but perhaps vassalage fits.  And today, China has a significant role in the Ethiopian economy...indeed, in many African economies.  While the Chinese don't colonize in the traditional sense, they reap the benefits they seek, nonetheless.  And the Ethiopians seem to be of mixed mind about this.  I've asked a couple people (yes, very small sample size) what Ethiopians think of the Chinese.  One said, 50-50.  The other said, "We don't like them."  They do a lot of high profile projects--a big ring road in town, a metro system, a modern African Union building, other large buildings, and they make junky products.  "Low quality" has been a consistent complaint about their goods.  But as Mr. 50-50 observed, the Chinese are "business makers."  They are indeed that.

Okay...enough for now.

More Pictures

One of Elyas' old teachers.



Peter shopping.  The shopkeepers loved him...he didn't want to negotiate.   He really was very enthusiastic to get some Ethiopic things.


 Two more of Elyas' old teachers.
T


The first day at the orphanage.


Went to a Starbucks knock-off...Kaldi's.  (Got searched on the way in.)  They served this frappocino (Ethiopian spelling).  I would have posted a picture of the full glass and "yum" comment on Facebook, but the government has temporarily shutdown FB.

Some Repair


Some repair--from the Lego difficulties, described in an earlier post--by way of Nerf basketball.  But it broke down again.  Everyone is navigating a lot of changes...changes none of us has as yet navigated.  And did I mention that everyone is really tired?

And it's no easier that none of the steps--first birth certificate, then passport--we hoped to take today were actually accomplished.   So we're kind of needing both to happen tomorrow!

The night did end well.  Sandy patiently engaged Elyas--with a lot of Google Translate--to discover some of the sources of his frustration.  Then she took him on a short walk, had some races on the stairs...and turned the mood and spirit of the whole thing.  Then he consented to a game of Uno with Peter and me...and everybody seemed happier and more joyful.   The first of what promise to be many such navigations, no doubt.